The Brand - Nigel Hall...

Gentlemen,

The next brand to be featured on ‘The Bespoke Gentleman’ is the British menswear brand, Nigel Hall.  Now, I’m sure many of the readers of this blog have heard of Nigel Hall, but if you haven’t this post sets out to give you an insight into the brand, the products they offer and the store environment.   

Nigel Hall has been creating menswear for nearly 25 years now…and has seen considerable growth in the last couple of years with stores popping up all across London and the most recent addition in Manchester. So what kind of clothing does Nigel Hall offer you ask?  Well in my opinion they make British inspired clothing for the modern gentleman who has an appreciation for classic pieces produced in the highest quality fabrics, coupled with an attention and appreciation for the finer details in garment construction which you will see from some of the photos below.

For this post I wanted to give the reader an insight into one of their beautifully crafted stores…So after a little thought, the Nigel Hall Spitalfields store was chosen, and the following photographs show a store with a unique and interesting store environment…the store consists of such things as  specially made wallpaper that features stylish gentlemen of the past, a rusted bicycle hung on a wall, fitting rooms that have vintage doors…it was refreshing to see a store have such a unique approach to design and is a change from brands that rollout the same fixtures and fittings to all stores.

So onto the clothes…I was really impressed with the current SS12 collection there were so many great pieces, I was a little surprised with how much I loved the collection, not because I underestimated Nigel Hall, it’s just there were so many standout pieces that got my sartorial appetite salivating! The below photos are products that I have chosen as some of my standout pieces from the collection, as you will see there are some close-ups of products due to little design touches that I specifically enjoyed!

GARCON - This laundered pinpoint cotton oxford shirt features a bound edge collar with a unique split button down detail, the cotton is really soft and the collar just sets this shirt off for me.

MACAVOY – I love the simplicity to a cream mac, and this spring weight, shower resistant town mac with a lined check interior looks sublime! Features cuff tab adjusters and a traditional hook and bar collar stand.

BUMBLE – This unstructured summer weight 3 buttoned blazer (also available in navy) reminds me of Parisian style, laid back and refined. As Tom from Nigel Hall states, this item will become a true friend throughout the Spring/Summer season. 

FEDERER – This knitted polo is amazing, it kind of has a really Italian vibe (think of Prada and Missoni) – I would be wearing this with some pleated trousers!

RICH – A bright orange cardigan is just what I need under a midnight blue blazer; I also love the detailing around the shoulder.

 Another product that had a great design feature was these trousers, which have waist adjusters… (Which I always prefer to belt loops) but these side adjusters are positioned slightly lower on the trouser...which is a nice touch!

Now, I had some knowledge of Nigel Hall before this blog post, but this post has really heightened my sense of awareness to the brand, what they are trying to achieve and has led to an increased appreciation.

I would like to wish Nigel Hall the best of luck for the new season…special thanks to Tom of Nigel Hall, you dapper gentleman! For more information on the brand visit one of their stores or online at: www.nigelhallmenswear.com

The Brand: Gentleman Arthur - revisited...

So, rewind a couple of months and featured on this blog was a new brand called Gentleman Arthur that were creating quality handcrafted and hand printed ties produced by wood block printing, creating unique and inspired ties, showcasing a level of craftsmanship that is pretty much unseen in the tie market. A couple of months on, Gentleman Arthur have also started producing hand crafted pocket squares aswell.  So, I thought it would be worthwhile showcasing some of current ties on offer along with the new pocket squares.

Currently, I keep harping on about my infatuation with true craftsmanship and I have always felt that this brand embody a level of craftsmanship very rarely seen, therefore with this I wanted to get a better understanding of the Gentleman Arthur brand. So what follows is a nice little interview with the co-founder and designer Samuel Wagner, which delves into the design process, the brand itself and what the word ‘craftsmanship’ means to Gentleman Arthur, this interview is intertwined with images from the current offering along with some EXCLUSIVE content just for ‘The Bespoke Gentleman’ blog.  Samuel has let me showcase images of the new pocket squares that will be available on the Gentleman Arthur website soon…Enjoy!

 So, ‘Gentleman Arthur’ is the name, how did you finalise this as the name for your brand?

Well, honestly, we have tried to let our audience choose how we refer to ourselves. Our original idea was simply to call our brand Arthur, and have our domain name be Gentleman Arthur.  As we released the brand into the world people took to Gentleman Arthur, and we’ve let it grow.  I also like the idea of being able to be talked about as Arthur, G. A., Gent Arthur, cause the more derivatives the more memorable. McDonald’s, Micky D’s, etc. 

Can you explain to ‘The Bespoke Gentleman’ readers what is so unique about the brand Gentleman Arthur?

 There are several things that make Arthur unique. Gentleman Arthur designs are all inspired by a story. Whether conceived from our family, or from our artistic interests, there is a sense of where our efforts are coming form. We want to create a dialogue with our visitors and patrons, making an experience that is more than simply spending money.  On top of that our printing process is one that you’ll rarely if ever see used for this purpose.  We hand carve and print our designs from woodblocks.  That process gives our products an aesthetic that we think is akin to the painted adverts you see on the side of brick buildings. The natural wear and integration of materials makes it feel like it was meant to be, organic. Other processes are very clean and mechanical, ours is messy, personal, and the prints are very rarely identical.  And when all of that is said and done, we sit down and sew up your tie. No one but Arthur touches Arthur.  In many ways it’s like getting a personally made gift, the care is visible.

The Bespoke Gentleman blog really appreciates brands that have ‘craftsmanship’ at its core…you don’t see that many accessories brands that put this much effort into creating timeless creations, what are your feelings on this?

 There are a lot of different views on craftsmanship, and I can only speak for Arthur’s perspective, but we think that there is a misconception of what is craftsmanship. At Arthur we think that craftsmanship is about being able to see the hand of the creator. When you receive our work it looks human, it has waves in the seams, and that’s not a fault, its part of making things artfully. You don’t see that at many other companies because they want to create continuity in their product, the first will be exactly the same as the last. Gentleman Arthur is always learning, refining our craft, yet preserving the individuality, which is what you really want when you’re creating your personal image.

  

So since I last wrote a piece about your brand on my blog, you have introduced a couple of pocket squares, what was the reason behind this?

I think that the idea of ties and pocket squares being purely formal attire is a misconception. I really want to rethink the pocket square as a fun causal piece you can add to any outfit that has a pocket to place it in.  Men don’t have enough options in spicing up simple classic looks, but the pocket square is a great option.  Over the next few weeks Arthur will be offering more of a look book to better communicate our full vision of what our styles can do.

Are you currently working on anything exciting at the moment?

We are really excited about the look book, but we are also going to be re-imagining our website.  Plus, a fun commemoration to the great work of painter, Josef Albers.  All in all, we have learned so much, and with continued support our designs are only going to be getting more ambitious.

As such a new brand, what ambitions have you got for the brand in the future?

We simply want to learn, grow, and create great products.  We do what we do because we love it, and believe in it.  I think going forward we want to focus on making more designs, and cutting back on the size of the run. So, in the future you’ll have to really jump on our designs before they’re gone.

 I love the simplicity with which your website is designed; can you tell me what was the thought process behind this?

 Arthur is about keeping it simple and classic. I think the design speaks to our process and our general aesthetic well.  Perhaps, in the future we will get more adventurous but never more complicated.  The designs basic principle is symmetry. The human face is seen as beautiful if symmetrical, why not a website? 

 In terms of the design process, what inspires your creations, for example – The ‘Emma Beryl’ pattern is amazing and unique…have you got any other exciting ones that you are currently creating?

I don’t want to give too much away, but I’m really excited about this multiple color, multiple block print that’s inspired by bees.  Also, down the road a ways, we are going to do a Sherlock Holmes inspired print with a little mystery involved.

That wood block puzzle that Bruce has created looks fantastic as just a piece of art never mind a puzzle, how long did it take him to make that?Bruce, my father, is a self-taught wood worker.  He spent most of his working life collecting and reading up on exactly how to make furniture, and once he retired he delved into it head first. His skill is really remarkable, and his attention to detail is pretty mind blowing. He started making these puzzles as a little personal fun, but he got quite good at it. I think if he was in a pinch he could make you a puzzle, start to finish in about 3 or 4 hours.

 With one sentence how would you sum up what Gentleman Arthur embodies?

Gentleman Arthur is the story of fun and class for the constantly evolving modern male.  

I really enjoyed Samuel’s answers to my questions, I hope you the reader did too. I wish Samuel and everyone involved with Gentleman Arthur the best of luck for the future, they are a brand that I find really inspiring. For more information or to go and buy yourself a Gentleman Arthur tie/pocket square visit there aesthetically pleasing website at: www.gentlemanarthur.com

Bespoke Tailoring from Anthony Sinclair...

Of course readers of ‘The Bespoke Gentleman’ must know by now that I am a massive fan of bespoke tailoring and the art of true craftsmanship…so it’s exciting to find out about ‘Anthony Sinclair’ who have just re-launched their bespoke tailoring service. Anthony Sinclair is best known for creating the iconic ‘Conduit Cut’ which was made famous across the 1960s due the legend that is Sean Connery wearing a ‘Conduit Cut’ bespoke suit from Anthony Sinclair for all of his roles in the James Bond franchise.  So why re-launch you ask…well, reviving the founder’s signature philosophy to produce elegant, understated and timeless clothing for a new modern day gentleman.

 Sean Connery pictured with Anthony Sinclair.

It was in the late 1960’s from his shop on Conduit Street in Mayfair that Sinclair created the classic, pared down shape, which subsequently became known as the Conduit Cut.  From then the Conduit Cut became a landmark in the history of Savile Row tailoring and the shape still looks as modern and elegant as it did back in 1962 when 007 first stepped onto the screen.  The production of genuine bespoke hand-tailored clothing remains the core activity of the company which now operates from its new premises on Sackville Street, London under the creative control of British designer David Mason.  Describing their unique approach and process, Mason explains: “The bespoke tailoring service involves a series of fittings and at least 50 hours of hand tailoring to take the garment through successive stages of production, allowing the client to witness the true bespoke experience of having his clothes built around him.”  To understand a little more about Anthony Sinclair tailoring I asked David a few questions about the re-launch and the bespoke service.

What does ‘heritage’ mean to the Anthony Sinclair brand in the year 2012?

Reverence for a style, attitude and philosophy that has endured for over half a century.

How do you think that Anthony Sinclair’s heritage can be preserved whilst targeting a new modern day Gentleman?

The core belief that “less is more” continues to prevail and is as relevant today as it was 50 years ago.

If you could, could you explain the cut/shape of the conduit cut and how the cut of this bespoke suit remains relevant today?

The ‘Conduit Cut’ shape of the suits has evolved over time but still retains the key style elements of a firm but natural shoulder, nipped waist and a slightly flared skirt, high armholes and roped sleevehead providing both form and function – the basic requirements of any product that stands the test of time.

The 'Conduit Cut'

How do you think bespoke tailoring and its popularity have evolved over the last ten years?

There has certainly been a renaissance in bespoke tailoring in terms of both market interest and demand, and also from young people who are keen to explore a career in a craft based industry.

So, do you think that the popularity of TV shows such as Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire has possibly attributed to an increased popularity of bespoke tailoring?

Yes, I think both TV shows have illustrated how a refined elegance can exude masculinity rather than appearing effete.

I think it’s an exciting time for Anthony Sinclair to re-launch, what are the current plans for the brand and what has this re-launch achieved so far?

Being the Golden Anniversary year of the James Bond franchise, 2012 has presented some exciting opportunities for the brand, in particular our involvement in the upcoming exhibition, “Designing 007 - Fifty Years of Bond Style”, which takes place at the Barbican in London.  It will showcase several Anthony Sinclair pieces, both old and new.

So, I believe you have re-launched at your new premises on Sackville Street in Mayfair, how do you like your new premises?

The “new” premises are actually “old” premises (no.6 Sackville Street has been a tailors shop for over 120 years) so we feel very much at home.

Anthony Sinclair premises - No. 6 Sackville Street, Mayfair.

If there was one signature fabric that the Anthony Sinclair brand is synonymous with, what would it be?

Sharkskin.

Finally, If you had one sentence to sum up the Anthony Sinclair brand, what would it be?

Timeless, classic clothing for modern men, of sophistication and good taste, who mean business… and pleasure.

Anthony Sinclair appointments can be made at 6 Sackville Street or by calling 0207 4377 007. A range of neckties will also be available to buy online from this month at: www.anthonysinclair.com

Prices start from £2,950+ VAT for a bespoke two-piece suit and £625+VAT for a special order two-piece.  I would like to thanks David for his time and wish everyone at Anthony Sinclair the best of luck for the future.