Sunday, 16 February 2014

The Globemakers, Bellerby & Co...

Globes – an unusual topic for The Bespoke Gent?  Probably, but when you see a product made with this level of craftsmanship its understandable why I wound want to feature…plus, what gent wouldn’t want to own one of these whether an avid traveller or not!

Bellerby & Co is the name and they are one of the few remaining Globemakers left in the world.  They pride themselves on a growing collection of quality, hand crafted, contemporary and traditional globes.  The globes range from towering heritage models situated in hotels and galleries to residential pieces suited to homes and offices. 

The company was founded by Peter Bellerby in 2008 when Peter wanted to give his father a globe for his 80th Birthday and found that he couldn’t find one that fit the ideal of – up to date map but with antique design.  If you think training is available for this sort of craft, think again!  Peter taught himself, through years of trial and error, whereby now he teaches one or two staff a year.  It takes each new team member at least six months of practising and learning to make just a small globe that could be sold. Another example of the level of craftsmanship and dedication Peter Bellerby has to making globes is that it took Peter 18 months to perfect applying the map to the sphere.  

Peter Bellerby
Churchill Globe being made
I must say I am very fond of these Globes and the work that Peter and his team dedicate to each globe – the art of true craftsmen working within a highly inspirational British brand. The Globes are now being sold exclusively at Harrods, so definitely check them out there. If you’re interested in the brand, do check this video out…

(All images copyright - Bellerby & Co)

Sunday, 2 February 2014

Barbour X Norton & Sons, SS14

Barbour and Norton & Sons have teamed up for a second season offering a capsule collection that celebrates an abundance of colour and the simplicity of the off-duty clothing worn by traditional Northumbrian fishing communities.  With Patrick Grant at the creative helm, he has helped create a clean product with simple lines.  The use of the colour yellow is refreshing, but if a little too bright for you they offer some lovely washed out blues that will look great in the city, countryside or for inspirational reasons…by the sea!

Sunday, 26 January 2014

January highlight - The Jermyn St, St James' London Collections: Men showcase...

Earlier in the month during the final morning of London Collections: Men a wonderful event was being held at Fortnum & Mason’s highlighting the wonderful work of some of the surrounding shops, of Jermyn St, St. James’. 

In association with The Crown Estate, the showcase displayed a beautifully curated selection of some rather iconic items of a Gentleman’s wardrobe.  Some of my favourite brands were there including, Budd, Emma Willis, Lock & Co, John Lobb and the list could go on for a considerably long time. 

I do enjoy these events that highlight true craftsmanship and the brands that are adhering to these values.  With all the fashion on display during London Collection’s Men, I must admit that there are only a few events that really make me feel proud to come from a country with a rich heritage in producing some of the finest clothing and accessories in the world, and this is one of them!

A great morning spent with some great friends from these brands and it was also lovely to meet the founder of the St James’ paper, The Correspondent…which is definitely worth a read if you’re a fan of the area. Finally, I must also mention the good work of The Crown Estate with all their investment into the area. This is most definitely having a prolonged and positive effect on the men’s fashion industry.
All images property of - The Crown Estate. 

Sunday, 19 January 2014

The Henry Poole & Co Exhibition at The Bowes Museum...

A couple of weeks ago I headed up North to County Durham to visit one of the exhibitions taking place at the beautiful Bowes Museum, which is situated in the town of Barnard Castle.  Henry Poole & Co, the Savile Row house that famously created the dinner jacket is the subject of the inaugural exhibition of men’s tailoring and craftsmanship at The Bowes Museum. 

This exhibition which is being displayed within the Museum’s internationally renowned Fashion & Textiles Gallery includes many different styles of jacket from a contemporary dinner jacket, a single breasted jacket in Churchill stripe, a tweed shooting jacket with waistcoat and plus twos and a sports blazer which bears the Napoleonic Eagle.  All the tailoring presented has been made by Henry Poole & Co using fine merino wool fabric and wool tweed.  What’s more is that the wool's used within the exhibition have been sourced from some of the finest British Mills. 

The exhibition has been beautifully curated where the Henry Poole & Co pieces have been presented to allow visitors to truly appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making a bespoke suit.  The exhibition doesn't feel stuffy and old, it just acknowledges the heritage and history that comes with bespoke tailoring and presents it in a modern and contemporary manner. I also happened to make it down for one of the live demonstrations from one of the new crop coming out of Henry Poole & Co, which added a great element to the day. The next demonstration is scheduled for 7th March, so definitely try and make it down for this! Below are a selection of photo's I took at the Museum...
The art of Bespoke Tailoring and wool cloth exhibition runs until 11th May 2014 and is brilliantly supported by The Woolmark Company.

Tuesday, 7 January 2014

Gieves & Hawkes, AW14 Presentation...

Next up on the London Collections: Men schedule was Gieves & Hawkes.  Having seriously impressed on their last two collections I was very much looking forward to seeing what Jason Basmajian would bring to the table for AW14.  To sum it all up in a sentence, he’s knocked it out of the park…again!

For Autumn/Winter 14, the collection is masculine, wearable, luxurious and most definitely elegant.  Key colours for the season include khaki, olive, racing green, tones of grey, navy, airforce blue and tobacco.  For me, the thing that caught my eye the most was the varying and exceptionally beautiful fabric’s used throughout the collection: Tweeds, twills, Donegal, crocodile, velvet, cashmere, alpaca and marled yarns to name a few that were seen throughout the offering.  Another point of note was the eyewear that the models were wearing, all Gieves and Hawkes, which is something I am unfamiliar with Gieves doing in the past, but added another good aspect the entire look. 

There were so many great looks to choose from that it was difficult to select just a few images to accompany this post, so definitely check out the full collection.   

Mr. Hare, the Tutto Nero - AW14 Collection...

Having attending the Mr. Hare & Mr. Start presentation last summer, I was very much looking forward to seeing what Mr. Hare had to offer this time around.  Now having a presentation slot all to himself, this presentation was most definitely all about the shoes!

Another great location was chosen by the brand, this time at Elms Lesters Studio which made the presentation even more exciting.  The AW14 collection, named ‘Tutto Nero’ takes Mr. Hare deeper into the art of male shoe finery.  Tutto Nero is a black, contemporary collection where all the rules are adhered to but strictly with today’s understanding not bullied by heritage.  The collection had so many great styles for all different tastes – oxfords, single monks, derbies, boots, slippers and the list could go on.  Below is a selection of images I took from the presentation, Enjoy!

Monday, 23 December 2013

Last minute shopping?...Head to Anderson & Sheppard...

If you are slightly slow when it comes to sorting out your Christmas shopping or you are just in need of some good inspiration, then head over to one of my favourite shops in London.  Yes, the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery on Clifford St is the place to go to...great knits, lots of different trousers, pocket squares as stocking fillers, superb wool ties and many more things.  The service is also excellent, so definitely give it a go!

Friday, 20 December 2013

Christmas Idea's with George Glasgow Jr...

Next up on my list of creative and influential gents in the menswear industry to share their thoughts on Christmas gifts for men is Mr. George Glasgow Jr, who is CEO of the brilliant bespoke shoemakers, George Cleverley.  I first featured George Cleverley back in 2012 with an interview with George Glasgow Jr and I’ve been a big fan of Cleverley’s for quite some time.  So it’s a pleasure to have his thoughts below:

What do you think makes a good gift for Gent’s this Christmas?
I think when buying a Christmas gift for a man it depends on a few things.  Firstly, how much you're willing to spend.  Secondly, the age / life style of the person and lastly what their interests are.  

If a person is in doubt then the best thing they can get is a gift certificate for Mr. Porter, Harrods or Selfridges.  

What are your picks this Christmas?

1) George Cleverley 1786 Russian Hide Hip Wallet

2) Pickett Backgammon Set

3) D R Harris Shaving Set

4). Aesop wash set. 

5) Eight & Bob.  It's amazing and was given to me by my friends at Double Monk in Melbourne. 

What would you like to receive yourself this Christmas?
What I would love for myself is a selection of new cashmere socks from my store.  I love the new colours and they are perfect for Christmas.

I thanks George for taking the time to answer my questions and I hope you find them helpful.  If you would like to find out more about George Cleverley & George Glasgow Jr then see my interview here from October 2012. 

Thursday, 19 December 2013

Christmas Idea's with Nick Hammond...

Mr. Nick Hammond is next up on sharing his thoughts on Christmas and what he thinks makes a great Christmas gift.  Nick is an Apprentice Cutter for Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons whom I first featured on the blog back in 2012.  He has become a great friend of mine and I hope you enjoy his answers as much as did.

What present would you like to receive this Christmas?
For Christmas there are many things I'd like ranging from theatre tickets (in particular to the new American physco musical), a beautiful antique pocket watch, or flights to one of the many European cities I'd love to visit. Mainly of all I'd like someone to iron the 60+ shirts I own for the following year.

What is your most valued sartorial possession?
My most valued sartorial possession would be my bespoke green worsted three piece suit. It's one of the first things I made with my own hands and it reflects my love for tailoring that isn't the obligatory navy or grey business attire. The cloth is exclusive to Norton and sons and has turned heads wherever I've worn it.

What do you think makes a good gift idea for Gent’s this Christmas?
A good gift for gents would be a beard grooming kit from Murdoch of London. Having been sporting a large beard for the past year I have realised there is a fine line between groomed and scruffy. Taking care of the facial hair is not only now considered masculine but it is also quite addictive.

If you had to choose one thing from Norton & Sons or E.Tautz this season what would it be?
For Christmas from E.Tautz I'd like either the AW13 Nicholas Polo Coat (not just because of the name coincidence) or the contrasting 74' 3 button check suit. The polo coat for its classic shape and waterproof cloth and the suit for the loud, brash colour and high break.  From Norton’s I'd like a length of the house charcoal dogs tooth worsted or a fox brothers navy heavy flannel chalk stripe to make a suit from.

Nick an I pictured earlier in the month.

I do hope you enjoyed reading Nick’s answers.  I was particularly interested in the knowledge that Nick has over 60 shirts; I know I wouldn’t want to iron all of them either.  If you would like to find out more about Nick, read his interview on the link below that I did with him back in 2012. 

Tuesday, 17 December 2013

A Bow Tie for Christmas...

Christmas Ideas on the Bespoke Gent are continuing and this post is all about the best Bow Ties on the market.  I've whittled it down to four Bow Ties from three different companies each offering a different style.  So whether it is a classic black silk bow tie or something a little bit more unique I think I have found a few good options from some of the UK’s finest luxury retailers. 

First up – This elegant and classic Black silk Bow Tie from Hardy Amies has the black tie events covered.  £85.00
Next – I like the subtle detail to this micro dog-tooth Bow Tie in beige from Crombie. £65.00
Finally – If you’re looking for something a little more standout made in wool, then look no further than these beautiful printed wool challis bow ties from Drakes. £95.00 (both)

Thursday, 12 December 2013

Christmas Idea's with Jolyon Bexon...

Next up on my list of creative and influential gents in the menswear industry to share their thoughts on Christmas gifts for men is Mr. Jolyon Bexon who is the flagship Store Manager of Savile Row tailors, Gieves & Hawkes.  I've met Jolyon many times over the last two years and he has always been a charming chap who has a great understanding of menswear and style in general.  So, I’m very happy to have included Jolyon for one my features on Christmas this year. 

What present would you like to receive this Christmas?
My family aren't big presenter givers; we prefer treating ourselves to holidays or dinners. More experiences than material objects. Though if I could have one thing for Christmas it would be health and happiness for my friends and family for the year to come.

What is your most valued sartorial possession? 
My most valued sartorial possession is my vintage military coat. It has beautiful big silver buttons, thick and heavy khaki green cloth and a neat fit. I literally look forward to winter just so I can wear it. Plus it only cost me £50 from Greenwich Market.

What do you think makes a good gift idea for gent's this Christmas?
A good shoe shine kit. The amount of men who don't polish or care for their expensive leather shoes is outrageous. 

If you had to choose one thing from the Gieves & Hawkes collection this season, what would it be?I would choose our three piece flannel peak lapel Royal Line suit. I'm green with envy whenever I see someone trying it on in store. The whole collection is stunning but this particular piece is my favourite. 

Jolyon has some great suggestions here, and I must agree with him on the amount of men not taking care of their expensive shoes.  Also, Jolyon touches upon the flannel suit he loves so much from the Royal Line at Gieves and I must admit that when I saw the whole line never mind the suit Jolyon mentions it made me green with envy, as it’s a great and highly wearable collection from Jason Basmajian. 

Sunday, 8 December 2013

Christmas Idea's with Tim Bent...

As previously stated on my last post, December is going to be about detailing the best Christmas gifts on offer for gentlemen.  As also stated I have enlisted a number of creative and influential gents to also share what they think about Christmas gifts and their suggestions.  So to start the ball rolling I ask Mr. Tim Bent of Bentleys a beautiful Antiques shop on Walton Street, Knightsbridge all about his Christmas gift ideas.  If you are unfamiliar with Tim or the shop, check back on my feature earlier in the year here:
Tim Bent, Feb 2013 - Bentleys Antiques 
What present would you like to receive this Christmas?
A well-loved Land Rover Defender 90, low mileage, one careful owner from new. Nothing fancy, something I can throw the dog and kids in the back of and head for the hills (challenging in The Fens!)

What is your most valued sartorial possession?
I know that sartorial doesn’t usually apply to accessories but my Norfolk Hide attache case would be my most valued possession. It’s been my constant travelling companion for many years and just gets better and better. It was made in 1929 and is as good as the day it was made. We have similar cases available in the shop but I couldn’t replace this one, it has too many memories attached. 
What do you think makes a good gift idea for gent's this Christmas? 
A vintage briefcase or attache case. It’s often overlooked but makes as much of a statement as your watch or your cufflinks.

If you had to choose one thing from Bentleys for Christmas what would it be?
That’s an almost impossible question - I only buy things that I love. I’d be very happy to take home this beautiful crocodile skin clock that was made by Jaeger-LeCoultre in the 1930’s. The colour and condition are perfect and it possesses that perfect, understated Art Deco elegance.
A reason for asking Tim to take part in this feature is because I feel that buying an antique gift has something of a more special feeling associated with it, than buying something brand new.  Where it will hopefully, not be thrown away making something from Bentleys a timeless gift for someone special.