Gieves & Hawkes SS14, 'The Grand Tour'...

Gieves & Hawkes presented their SS14 collection on Sunday night at the David Gill Gallery, Mayfair as part of the London Collections: Men (LCM) programme.  I was rather excited to see them present during the three day showcase as this was their first full presentation on the LCM calendar. 

You may remember I wrote not that long ago about the well received AW13 collection from Gieves, which I particularly loved.  At the time it was Jason Basmajian’s first collection for the brand and Gieves finest for some time, so this definitely upped my anticipation for his follow up collection. 

The SS14 collection is inspired by the traditions of bespoke but it is contemporary in its fresh mix of sartorial, military and sportswear styling.  Much of the tailoring and shoe collections are also made right here in England.  The colours were also a nice change with the main colours on show evolving around soft earth tones, ivory and beige with rose, navy, khaki and dark brown. 

Jason Basmajian is definitely onto something here, as I was again very impressed with his latest offering for Gieves.  I was talking to Jolyon Bexon (No.1 Savile Row Store Manager) about the collection and how many looks we loved.  You could honestly have picked up any outfit for me to wear and I would have been happy, that’s how strong it was.  Anyway I won’t go on to much, below are my top five picks from the collection. 

Enjoy the photos.

My top five key looks from the collection.

1.) The iconic British trench was a firm favourite – made in featherweight waterproof silk twill.

2.) A lovely double breasted suit in a probable linen/silk mix worn by Gieves man of the moment.

3.) Shawl Lapel dinner jacket – made in raw silk ivory.

4.) The pea coat in tangerine (added a nice touch of colour to the collection).

5.) To many jackets to choose from, so I have a picture of them all together – safari jacket, blouson and chocolate suede jacket.  

 

The above photos are my top five looks, the following photos are other outfits that I enjoyed. 

Mr Hare & Mr Start, SS14 at London Collections: Men...

It would be no lie in saying that I have a lot of love for both of these brands, and have featured an interview with Mr. Philip Start not so long ago.   This time around the two ‘MR’ brands team up to show off their latest offering at the House of St Barnabas, Soho.  The venue was a fitting choice, with three decadent rooms being used for the showcase.  The below photo’s highlight the things that really caught my eye, most notably my top choice for SS14 from Mr Start was the white baseball jacket (see below) and for Mr Hare these top notch Tassel loafers (see below). 

An Interview with Huntsman Owner, Roubi L'Roubi...

At the start of 2013, couturier, Roubi L’Roubi and his partner, Pierre Lagrange bought Savile Row tailors, Huntsman.  After a few months into his new job I wanted to get the lowdown on what he has planned for Huntsman in the coming months, so I sat down with the man himself at No.11 Savile Row to gain an insight into his plans, and what he loves so much about bespoke tailoring. 

How and when did the opportunity come about to buy Huntsman?

It was just by chance, I was having dinner with the previous owners and we were talking about Huntsman and I used to make for Holland & Holland for many years, and they said would you assist us in something and after the meeting I thought why don’t we just purchase the brand, and so we made them an offer and they accepted.  So it was just by chance, but it was a very good opportunity because of my experience in tailoring (Roubi has previously worked on projects with Henry Poole and Holland & Holland).  So it was a kind of natural marriage, we were very lucky. I mean it’s not often you can find a brand like this, and when you do it’s not normally for sale. 

When you were growing up what were your first memories of Savile Row and the surrounding area?

When I was at university I was familiar with the Row but also Jermyn Street. I remember receiving my first salary and I went down Jermyn Street and bought some shirts and jackets and things.  I remember my first velvet dinner jacket was from there, my shoes were from John Lobb and they cost an absolute fortune. I was 21 or something, so yeah that was one of my first experiences but I grew up in a family household where I've always had things made. 

Roubi L'Roubi - outside Huntsman.

What sort of things have you been getting on with since starting at Huntsman?

From the historic archives I have been using all the old pictures to help restore the shop back to what it used to look like, then we are refurbishing all the workrooms which needed modernising.  We are also recreating a section of the shop that will be dedicated exclusively to bespoke, as I wanted bespoke to have a much bigger space being that it’s the foundation of the business. The presentation and communication of the bespoke option is very important.  With ready to wear it has to be much more precious, I’m working on that right now, there has to be a signature from the bespoke right into the ready to wear, where every piece will have a Huntsman signature detail, button detail, fabric. 

I hear a new website is coming?

Yes, hopefully around September/October. I’m working on the website which is a really big thing, updating the website with all the archives.  So basically the website will reflect very clearly and be more accessible.  The website will also be transactional and have features on the archive along with becoming more social via social media channels.  It’s still very traditional, very Huntsman, very clean so it’s not departing from the heritage but I want the back of it to be the best in technology now, but the front to feel traditional. 

What do you think makes Huntsman special?

I think it’s the tradition of making and having a distinguished look which for Huntsman is the one button, single breasted suit, that’s really the Huntsman, and it’s got this shape in the front which is very distinctive.   

 (The archive books - now on display within Huntsman)

What are your thoughts on ready-to-wear for Savile Row?

I think the ready to wear should just be an extension of the bespoke, that it’s accessible, but it should not be different, it should be a simplified version of bespoke.  I think sometimes brands can get it wrong with bespoke doing one thing and ready to wear doing another. 

What are your feelings on bespoke today?

I think bespoke will always do well, but what I am finding with the new generation is that the communication has to be more up to date, you have social media, you have visual communication, accessibility so in a way if you communicate that message the people are there. 

Finally, in terms of the Huntsman archive, whose style is a personal favourite of yours?

Winston Churchill is my number one.  I found that era very interesting. I've researched him for many years, as I previously said I have always used his wardrobe for inspiration.  He was a very handsome man when he was younger, incredibly dapper, unbelievable. He was in the army and wearing these military jackets, small waist, v-shape, all done up with beautiful frogging, brass and gold.  He fought in North Africa and he was wearing all these khakis and linens…I always think can you imagine, someone made this much effort and there is a war going on!    

(some of the famous names from the archive books)

I would like to thank Roubi for his time, it was a pleasure to meet him and listen to all his experiences and plans for Huntsman.  The opening up of the shop has definitely freshened things up and I did enjoy the bespoke area where you could see and touch past and present bespoke garments.  I think Roubi has some great ideas for both bespoke and ready-to-wear and his passion and work ethic were clearly visible from the start of the interview.  I look forward to meeting him again soon, and all the regular chaps at No.11.  Oh, finally when the website does launch you will be more than impressed, Roubi allowed me a sneaky peak at the work in progress and it’s rather impressive!

The Crombie Rainmac...

Summer may have finally arrived, but you know the British summer loves a good shower, which is where this feature comes in.  Crombie, that great British label may be synonymous with the ‘Crombie coat’ and rightly so, but I wanted to discover other alternatives that Crombie currently offers. For this feature I've focused on one piece of outerwear and that piece is the Crombie Rainmac.  Instead of just showing product images of the coat I wanted to do a little photo shoot to give you a better perspective on the style, shape and fit. 

The Crombie coat has the usual and expected durability, but by using a single layer of double faced fabric (a once difficult technique of which Crombie was a pioneer in the nineteenth century) it’s a lighter weight than many other full cotton raincoats.  The garment is resin coated and features taped seams, allowing for a fully waterproof coat.  On wearing this coat during the shoot it felt very comfortable and light but also felt stylish and even somewhat tailored.  The fit was bang on; it didn't feel boxy which you sometimes find with other raincoats.  The coat comes in this lovely blue colour, which was a nicer shade than having the usual navy/black option.   

I’m not sure what your perception of Crombie is, whether you only associate the brand with outerwear, but they have some beautiful Scottish knitwear (which was worn below the coat), fantastic DB summer blazers and I was rather taken by this Crombie flower print silk scarf that I am wearing in the shoot.  I’ve loved the current summer collection from Crombie, and I’m very excited to see what they have in store for next season, and I hope you are too.  

 Crombie Air Force Blue Coat - £750.00 – I’m wearing a size 38 regular

Crombie Silk scarf - £75.00

For more information visit: www.crombie.co.uk

Photography: Luis Pereira

British-made Cufflinks from Duchamp...

I have featured many fantastic cufflink brands on this blog, notably HollenWolff and Alice Made This, but I have never shared some factory photos of actual cufflinks being made. So, today I wanted to share with you a selection of photos from acclaimed photographer and style blogger, Jonathan Daniel Pryce who visited the cufflink manufacturer for British brand, Duchamp.  The entire production process was photographed, from a small studio in nearby, Kent.

To have a look at all the current cufflinks from Duchamp, please visit: www.duchamplondon.com

For more photography from Jonathan Daniel Pryce please visit his blog: www.garconjon.com

Clerkenwell Design Week...

Living in Clerkenwell does have its benefits, apart from it being a beautiful little place it also is the home of Clerkenwell Design Week (CDW), annually held at multiple locations throughout Clerkenwell.  It’s now firmly established itself as the UK’s leading independent design festival.

This three day festival host’s an array of the world’s most notable design, architectural and creative names.  One of my favourite locations used for CDW is the Farmiloe Building which is a ridiculously elegant former Victorian glass-works, which is the perfect backdrop for the exhibitors.  Alexander McQueen also notably used the Farmiloe Building for one of its men’s collections in January. 

Regardless, of this being a design festival and nothing to do with the usual stuff on the blog.  I had to give it a mention as the level of craftsmanship and creativity that is visible here, is inspiring.  Below is a selection of photographs of things that caught my eye.

If you haven't already, register online and see it for yourselves.

www.clerkenwelldesignweek.com

Acqua di Parma Colonia...

We all have a favourite cologne, or a trusted go-to scent which makes us feel as elegant and sophisticated as any well tailored suit could.  For me, my fragrances of choice for the last 4-5 years have come from the great, Acqua di Parma.  More specifically, I used to favour Colonia Intensa but for the last year I have been wearing the original Acqua di Parma cologne, Colonia.

I have always gone for summery, citrus scents and Colonia is exactly that.  It’s a fresh and clean fragrance with its main ingredient being citrus fruit from Sicily, lavender, bergamot, verbena and Bulgarian rose.  I must admit, the first time I picked up a bottle of Acqua di Parma was not because I had been recommended it, but actually due to the distinctively simple and beautiful bottle design which caught my eye, from there it’s been a love affair ever since.  

To find out more about the bottle, I share with you a few sentences from Gabriella Scarpa, President of Acqua di Parma. 

“The cone-shaped Colonia Bottle, inspired by the Art Deco style, is a perfect expression of the brand and its values of timeless elegance, understated luxury, and craftsmanship.  The heavy glass and the white label bearing the logo, still applied manually, offer a subtle but clear hint about its crafted contents.  An extremely elegant and assertive, discrete and sophisticated fragrance, an elegant choice characterized by the typical understated luxury masterfully conveyed by Acqua di Parma.”

Gabriella Scarpa, President, Acqua di Parma

Acqua di Parma have also recently opened there second Blu Mediterraneo SPA at the Gritti Palace Hotel, Venice, which from the photo below looks rather opulent, my only request is that they open one in London...Please!

  

Colonia retails at £47.00 for 50ml

HANCOCK...

The brand Hancock came to my attention just under a year ago, where the brand had been showing there collection from the Hospital Club (Covent Garden) during the inaugural London Collections: Men.  I was impressed by the outerwear with its luxurious simplicity and confident colour palette as you will see below, and subsequently I got chatting to the Gent’s behind the brand, Mr. Gary Bott and Mr. Daniel Dunko at their stand.  

I have met Gary quite a few times since then and I am always excited to chat to him about the brands adventures and all things new going on at Hancock.  I asked Gary for a quick word on the brand that he and Daniel created to allow for a better insight:

“Both Daniel Dunko and I came from Mackintosh where Daniel created that brand in 1996 and I helped launch in the UK in 2003. Following the sale of the company in 2007, we decided to leave and create a new label that utilised the original rubber bonded cloth Thomas Hancock perfected from 1825-1843 with his business partner Charles Macintosh. Daniel has 28-years of traditional coat making experience and together we have established our own factory, global retail partnerships such as Barneys New York and United Arrows, manufacturing for luxury private label, collaborations (to be announced June 2013) and recently won a Wallpaper* Design Award. So we're very happy with what we've been able to achieve in our first year but still have a long way to go. Our label is not based solely on handmade outerwear. We see Hancock as a luxury lifestyle label and this year will launch accessories to include bags and footwear. Furniture is next.” Gary Bott – Hancock

All of Hancock’s garments are hand-made from its factory in Scotland, where two generations of expert coat-makers work with vulcanised cloths such as wool flannels, cashmeres, silks and cottons, which are then bonded using a rubber manufacturing process at an original Victorian factory in England.  A while back Gary actually showed me a video of Daniel creating one of the garments which showed the process of distributing the rubber evenly across the garment…and let’s just say it looked ridiculously difficult.  This video really did help me understand the level of craftsmanship that goes into creating one of these garments, showing me that Hancock truly embody the word craftsmanship!

 (The rubber process as mentioned above)

 (The Hancock stand at last year's Pitti)

(Hancock's collaboration with Globe-Trotter)

Hancock is a name to watch this year! For more Hancock information visit: www.hancockva.com

Gieves & Hawkes AW13...

I don’t often post about the release of a brands lookbook, but when I viewed the forthcoming AW13 collection by Gieves & Hawkes a few weeks back, I decided that it needed to be given a full feature due to the exceptional tailoring on offer. 

This collection is also intriguing as it is our first insight into what new design director, Jason Basmajian has created for his first full collection with Gieves & Hawkes.  Personally, I’ve enjoyed many aspects of previous collections from Gieves & Hawkes but I cannot remember the last time I loved a whole collection as much as this one.  I feel like Jason Basmajian has hit the nail on the head with his first collection at Gieves, providing beautiful tailored suits, with enough quirks and standout pieces to keep the understated Gent along with the more adventurous dandy equally excited about this one.

 

For AW13 there will be two menswear lines, the first being the mainline and the second being a new capsule collection which has also been referred to as the “royal collection”.  This “royal collection” needs some mention as I did get rather excited about it.  There was a standout check coat, a sublime three-piece Prince of Wales check suit, which featured an interesting lapelled waistcoat, which seem to have gone missing from mainstream tailoring of late.  Other highlights included the strong showing of shoes, the accessories were beautiful, the subtle use of chambray…but I guess most importantly for me the colour palette was bang on, and styled brilliantly. 

Anyway enough of my goings on, have a look for yourself, below are a selection of my favourite looks from the AW13 collections, which will be available in store from September. 

Images 1-3 - Gieves & Hawkes Mainline

 Images 4-6 - Gieves & Hawkes Capsule Collection

www.gievesandhawkes.com